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Tuesday 4 September 2012

Non-Poison Potions: Chemical Free Toiletries for Your Bathroom


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It's been waaaay too long since my last post. I was moving house and then there was the settling in after that and then....well I got lazy. A bunch of inexcusable excuses, but nevertheless, here I am again. As a continuation from my previous post Beauty & The Chemical Beasts, I started the hunt for chemical free personal care products few years ago upon discovering the article from www.care2.com that the synthetics used in manufacturing toiletries could have well been the cause of my skin allergy (diagnosed by my doctor as chronic urticaria). Let me tell you, it wasn't easy! Personal care products made using natural products are very, very limited in Malaysia not to mention costly, usually available in health shops (but I'd like to think the market for it is growing with more and more people getting more aware). 
 
I go by these rules of thumb when I decide whether or not to buy a product.

1. READ THE LABELS
I was one of those consumers who looked only at the front sticker (level of attractiveness of the packaging will score points too). If it says 'extra-moisturising' or 'anti-oxidants from pomegranate' I'd totally buy it. It never occurred to me to check the ingredients printed in minuscule fonts at the back of the bottle. If I did back then, I'd realise that 'pomegranate' was not at all in the list, instead a breakdown of chemicals used to make the artificial pomegranate scent. Who knows what's been used as moisturising agent.

2. IF YOU CAN'T PRONOUNCE THE WORD, IT CAN'T BE GOOD 
My second rule of thumb is that, if you read the ingredients and you have a hard time keeping up with its spelling or pronunciation, then it's most likely trouble. Although, natural ingredients could also be named in it's scientific form but the common name is usually bracketed next to it.

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3. ORGANIC DOESN'T MEAN CHEMICAL FREE
Again peeps, read the label. Having the word 'organic' printed on the bottle doesn't that the shampoo or lotion is chemical free. If you read the label, chances are you will see a whole bunch of ingredients with long spellings that your brain will have a hard time processing. Perhaps as the last or second last ingredient the content says 2% "organic aloe vera". It's amazing what people are willing to believe and what the magic of marketing and advertising can achieve (I'm sure the pretty packaging helps too).

 4. SCREW FRAGRANCE
Having the word 'fragrance' on the list is a big no-no for me. Firstly, they almost always contain phthalates unless indicated since it's a chemical used to stabilise scent in perfume and colour in cosmetics (phthalates causes the depression of normal thyroid function, also affecting genital development of young boys and sperms counts in adult men). Fragrance is also considered  proprietary information hence not required to reveal it's formula so who knows what's in lurking in there. Unfortunately, finding a label that says 'fragrance-free' or unscented' doesn't cut it either! It only means that a masking scent is being used. Instead, look for 'no synthetic fragrance' or 'natural essential oil fragrance only'. Sadly, this 'screw fragrance' rule applies to all those sensuous perfumes by Christian Dior, Ralph Lauren etc etc. Mine is now lying round on my dresser looking pretty. But, by no means do we have to smell 'funky'. Just make sure they're natural fragrance.

5. WHEN IN DOUBT REFER TO COSMETICS DATABASE
If you aren't sure about a brand or ingredient, check it out at www.ewg.org/skindeep/ They're an environmental group that compiles information on personal care and cosmetics ingredients to provide safety ratings on a wide variety of brands and ingredients. If you want to get a safety rating for a brand you come across, simply go to the website and key in the brand name. If that brand is not available in their database, you may key in the individual ingredients and check out the safety ratings for them.

Our skin reacts differently to different products depending on the ingredients no matter how natural and perhaps even how its made especially if you have sensitive skin like me. I'd pick up a perfectly good cleanser and my facial skin could react to it. Some essential oil could be too potent for some people's skin. If you have sensitive skin or skin allergy, I suggest going for the unscented products first and stay away even from fragrance and essential oil. My skin was initially so sensitive that even mild essential oil would irritate it. Few months later, I decided to give essential oiled toiletries a go and I was fine! It felt so good to have some fragrance back in my life, natural no doubt ;)


I started going through the Cosmetics Database with what I'd imagine to be a wild goose chase given the tens of thousands of products available in their database. My strategy: random browsing with the hope of getting lucky and I did! In the first few pages of facial cleanser list (rated based on safety), my attention was caught when I saw Indochine Natural. Indochina was the former French territory consisting of Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, so Indochine Natural had to be Asian at the very least. I found out that the brand was originally started in Vietnam but is based in Penang, Malaysia! I wanted to get a single piece of the soap to try out hence forgoing online purchase. I contacted them for retail in KL and was directed to Tiny Tapir only to find that they only carry the soap at their temporary kiosk in Bangsar Village. The trip wasn't too wasted because I found Soapy soap which is what I'm using till this day. 

Anyhow, I still wanted to try out Indochine's soap so I headed to Bangsar Village to get me some when I found the kiosk next to it selling Badger Balm. I read the ingredients and they seemed very natural. The products weren't cheap so I whipped out my smart phone and checked out Badger Balm on the Cosmetics Database. It was good news. Also in Bangsar Village, I went into Bluedot Baby because I love little shops that carry not-so-commercial brands that are good but can be rather pricey. There, I found Organic Children and that lead me to Green People, a brand I love, love, love! 

Facial cleanser was a tricky situation for me. My skin is so sensitive that it would even react to natural essential oil. Not only that, I picked up a no-scent cleanser and my skin still reacted. What the hell, right?! Fortunately I stumbled upon Trilogy but almost left it untouched as it is quite a pricey brand. A very good friend of mine was there with me and recommended me this brand as she had used it before when she was in Australia and was glad to see it available in KL. It's not cheap but hey, it's the face! And on hindsight, I've spent way, way more on spa products and facials that did my face no favour. I have extremely sensitive facial skin that will let me know immediately should it not be happy with a product.

Below is a review the list of products I've tried out based on category.


FACIAL CLEANSER 

Brand: Trilogy
This by far the best facial cleanser I picked up. The facial skin is a very funny thing if I may say so. This cleanser does contain some chemicals, although no fragrance, but somehow my skin reacted positively to it. It's one of those cream cleanser that leaves a a layer of moisture on your skin after cleansing hence giving the 'oily' feel. But, you know what, I have not yet used another cleanser that cleans so well. I used to have problems with oil seeds on my face but it went away when I started with Trilogy. Sure I still get some but 2-3 seeds doesn't bother me. It is also marketed as a make up remover but I find that it needs a few washes it the mascara or eyeliner is water-proof. Although, a friend of mine whom I recommended this to love it as a make up remover. They do have variety of different range which I did not attempt since they contain 'parfum'. Sure it's not cheap but a 150ml tube will last me for about 4 months. Each use requires only the amount of a pearl drop and if your face is not too oily, you will even have enough to cleanse your neck.
 Rating: 9/10
Price: RM118.00 
Where to buy: Vitacare Pharmacy
   

Brand: Green People 
I am a huge, huge fan of Green People, and they are also the first natural and organic brand I discovered that actually produced quality products. I have been so disappointed over and over again trying to find personal care product with no chemicals in them and then I found Green People and it worked! They come across as an ethically responsible brand that supports fair trade and environmental sustainability and does not conduct animal testing; causes I strongly support. They also carry a range for men and babies/children so check out their website for more products as I will only review what I've used which unfortunately doesn't included the men's range. I am a big fan of their babies and children range which I will review in a separate post specially dedicated to kiddos and lil bubs. 

I am such a big big fan of Green People and this facial cleanser seemed so so promising but I was let down. I doubt it was the product that was the problem (it's got lots of good reviews by people with sensitive and problematic skin), it was my face that was being extremely difficult. My face became dry, patchy and rough. I gave it a week and the reaction remained the same so I halted its usage. I swapped back to the Trilogy and use this only as an eye make up remover.
 Rating: 1/10 (only because my skin is being difficult!)
Price: £18.95 (not inclusive of shipping)
Where to buy: www.greenpeople.co.uk  
I was using this facial wash before I swapped over to Trilogy. It was good for a while but then my face started to react by going patchy red. But I must say that this was is great if you got a spot on your face. So I still have this on standby for the occasional pimple. Plus, it's doesn't cost much to buy.
 Rating: 6/10 (for acne/pimples), 3/10 (as a daily cleanser)
Price: RM43.80 (I haven't use this in a while so the price could have been revised)


SOAP/ LIQUID SOAP 

Brand: Soapy
I highly recommend this brand of soap although I still personally prefer liquid soap since they're less hassle and easy for travel but I've got to be practical financially as this cost a lot less than liquid soap. I also like that there is a description for what each soap is for. I prefer to buy them online from the manufacturer themselves because not all range are available in retail. Also, delivery is free is you purchase 10 or more bars. I still stick to this brand of soap till today. From the social responsibility point of view, I always support brands that do not conduct animal testing and use recyclable packaging which is what Soapy is. The soaps so not contain synthetic ingredients and if you visit the website and read the profile, you can tell that they take pride in producing quality products and are environmentally responsible.

I moved on to the scented range after a few months of starting with the unscented and I would react the first few times I start using but then my skin would condition and get used to it. I love being able to have different scents everytime I shower.

Charcoal Tea Tree: This is very effective for pimples on your body. But I keep the usage limited to the affected areas as it can be quite drying.
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM12.90

Macho Soap: Think the name says it all. This one's specially for the dudes and I've actually tried it. It does smell manly to begin with and the crushed sesame seeds has tougher scrub action, which I suppose men need (no offense)
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM12.90

Citrus Delight, Orange Mint: I love both this soap for the citrus aroma and it's ability to remove dull skin, although the Orange Mint is leaves the skin more moisturised. 
Rating: 7/10(Citrus Delight), 8/10 (Orange Mint)
Price: RM12.90

Pandan Mint, Eucalyptus: This two leave your skin with the cool after feeling so I find that very refreshing.
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM12.90

Geramiun Rice: The sweet floral scent of this soap reminds me of Bali or Balinese spas. The rice in the soap acts as an exfoliator so it works as a good scrub too. Although, I have to admit that my skins reacts to it slightly. But since love the scent I put up with the very mild allergy reaction.
Rating: 6/10
Price: RM12.90

Lavender: Lavender has the calming scent that makes me feel relaxed and it's something about it that is also soothing. 
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM14.90

T-Tree-Lemongrass-Lime: It's is advisable to avoid lemongrass if you have sensitive skin but I thought, heck it, lemongrass is one of my favourite scents so I'd chance it. Turns out my skin did not react to this anymore than it did to the Geranium Rice. This is also good for blemished skin because of the tea tree oil so it has natural anti-bacterial properties that promotes cleansing.
Rating: 7/10
Price: RM14.90
Where to buy: www.soapy.com.my , Tiny Tapir retail in Ampang Park, Organique Therapies @ Haven on Jalan Ampang Hilir


Product: Unscented Soap
If you have skin allergies or sensitive skin like mine I suggest you start with the unscented range. I used to have problems with dry skin especially the shin area no matter what the label says about 'moisturising' until I switched to Soapy. My skin can get away without body lotion although it also depends on the weather. If I'm in Ireland in winter for example, I'd still need lots of moisturising.

Fresh Goat Milk: I find this to be the mildest of the soap so it's perfect for super sensitive skin.
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM12.90

Goat Milk Honey: Honey is suppose to be nourishing for the skin but I find this soap leave the skin drier compared to the other unscented range.
Rating: 7/10
Price: RM12.90

Oat & Milk: This is one of my favourites as a starter. The oats in the soap acts as an exfoliator as you scrub leaving the skin smooth. I occasionally use this to scrub my face to remove dead skin.
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM12.90

Olive Wheatgerm Honey: I find this similar to the Oat & Milk soap but slightly less mild.
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM12.90

Cocoa Butter: I found this very nourishing and moisturising to the skin but stopped after what a friend of mine told me about her dermatologist informing her that cocoa butter is a skin irritant. Also, my mom and sister reacted to this particular soap so why chance it?
Rating: 8/10
Price: RM14.90
Where to buy: www.soapy.com.my , Tiny Tapir retail in Ampang Park, Organique Therapies @ Haven on Jalan Ampang Hilir


Brand: MooGoo
Product: Milk Wash 
They are free of bad chemicals such as phthalates but I see red flags whenever I see the word 'parfum' or 'fragrance' because you may never know what its contents are. Moreover, I feel I have used enough natural products that a 'sniff test' can tell you enough about whether there's chemicals in a product by the way it smells and this in no way smells natural, says my nose. Plus, I developed rashes 5 days into using it. However, I must say it doesn't dry out the skin like most body wash does and the skin feels quite nourished. So if you don't have such sensitive skin, give it a try.
Rating: 4/10
Price: RM59.00
Where to buy: Vitacare Pharmacy, Pharmacy at Prince Court Medical
Product: Cleanse and Nourish Body Wash
I quite like this wash. It leaves your body feeling nourished and doesn't dry out the skin. It got this when it was on promotion (50% off) but would not otherwise buy it as it would leave a huge hole in my purse. I don't remember the exact price but it was around RM50 for a 200ml bottle. The ingredients are almost all natural except the preservative used. Phenoxyethanol causes skin irritation and could cause organ system toxicity but my skin seems to be ok with this so I'm just assuming that the quantity is rather low.
Rating: 7/10
Price: N/A
Where to buy: Organique Therapies @ Haven on Jalan Ampang Hilir


 SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER

Brand: Green People 
Product: Daily Aloe Shampoo & Conditioner for normal hair
This shampoo is great for people with normal hair. I like it too except that I have oily scalp so I would wash my hair everyday instead of alternate days. It can be quite expensive given it's only a 200ml bottle but the shampoo is quite concentrated so you don't need to use much for each wash. Come to think of it, the tube does last me for a couple of months.
Rating: 8/10 
Price: £9.95 (not inclusive of shipping)
Where to buy: www.greenpeople.co.uk  

Product: Irritated Scalp Shampoo & Conditioner for normal/oily hair & itchy scalp
Love, love, love this range. I makes my hair feels light and my scalp feels clean. I don't get oily scalp with this and I'm able to wash my hair alternate days instead of everyday. But I would pair this shampoo with the nourishing range of conditioner as it does tend to dry out the end. So, a nourishing conditioner would make up for the cleansing effect of the shampoo.
Rating: 9/10 
Price: £9.95 (not inclusive of shipping) 
Where to buy: www.greenpeople.co.uk 

Product: Tea Tree Conditioner for deep cleansing
Rights, firstly, I meant to buy the shampoo to pair it with a moisturising conditioner but I took the conditioner by mistake. I ended up with two bottles of conditioners instead. That aside, I have to say I'm a big fan of the conditioner. For one, it works very well and unlike many conditioners, it doesn't not make your hair greasy and €5.35 (bought it in Ireland) not too expensive at all for a 400ml bottle considering what I paid for the Green People hair care range. I bought this to try when I was back in Ireland. Unfortunately, I can't purchase this online from the website to get it delivered to Malaysia and have not tried finding a reseller. Shame. 
Rating: 9/10 
Price: £5.35
                                              Where to buy: N/A





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